‘Every Chef Should Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on List of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary achievement.