Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
